03 June 2009
He is a girthy chap, there’s no denying, but it is not Monsieur Defaix I’m talking about. No, it’s his wines, his beautiful Chablis premiers crus, and the fact that they are nine years old. Other producers at the fair are sharing excellent things, Burgundies white and red, Côte Rôties, Riojas, clarets from the lovely 2005 vintage. Only Defaix’s Chablis Vaillons, his Côte de Lechet and his Les Lys are palpably, sensuously, seductively on heat. Monsieur Defaix is Pandarus. He knows the dishes that will produce the longest orgasms. But he is playing a dangerous game.