SPQR

 

“Sophisticated yet soulful, Italian-inspired cuisine,” is how San Francisco’s SPQR restaurant bills its culinary offering.

 

And that seems a very fair description for dishes such as burnt flour campanelle, hot-smoked salmon, fava bean, vermouth cream, and dill; and “desgustazione” of suckling pork, green aple, celerly root millefoglie, and turnip and its ash.

 

It’s also an apt way of summing up the wine list: a “sophisticated yet soulful” compilation of the very best of modern Italian wine.

 

The judges at the World’s Best Wine Lists 2015 found much to admire throughout the list, starting with a broad selection by the glass, small-taste, and carafe, which is arranged by style and region, and which moves from Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Brut Franciacorta to Benanti Rosso di Verzella Etna Rosso.

 

The excitement doesn’t let up on the full-bottle list, which is full of fine choices, from Terlano Vorberg Pinot Bianco Riserva Alto Adige 2011, to Bruno Giacosa Falletto Barolo 2005 and Contini Vernaccia di Oristano Flor, Sardinia 2003.