On paper it sounds like a ludicrous idea: take a concise selection of the best, small-producer Champagnes and serve them with that fastest of fast foods, the hot dog. That Bubbledogs has been pulling in customers since it opened its doors in 2012, however, suggests the team behind this Covent Garden restaurant were on to something. And it may just be that the refreshingly democratic approach to a drink that has a tendency to get lost in a fragrant cloud of glamour and elitist marketing was exactly what a certain type of Londoner was looking for—a place to drink Champagne that for once, as the restaurant’s website puts it, doesn’t serve it with caviar.

That the choice of wines is so good has, without question, also played its part. And, however you may feel about the likes of Vouette et Sorbée Blanc d'Argile Extra Brut being sold as “So Fresh, So Clean” or Eric Rodez, Cuvée des Crayères, Grand Cru Brut being presented starkly as a “Mouthful,” you have to admire the iconoclastic chutzpah on show here. Our judges certainly did, and brief as it may be, for the quality of wine, and playfulness of presentation, Bubbledogs is an unusual but nonetheless worthy three-star list.