kadeau Kobenhavn

Copenhagen restaurant Kadeau’s avowed intention is to “portray the wonderful tastes and smells”—as well as “the herbs, the crockery, the artwork, and the ambience”—of “our beloved island,” Bornholm in the Baltic Sea.

That takes the form of a set menu of either 20 or four “servings,” featuring unexpected combinations of the wild, the foraged, and the locally sourced, such as cod and spruce; sourdough and lichen; pork, beets, and rowan; or blackcurrant, milk, and salsify.

To match these clean, fresh flavours, a wine list that displays a preference for “energy and elegance over power and muscle,” wines the team believes “go better with our food and feel better on our palates.”

And the judges at the World’s Best Wine Lists 2015 were impressed with both the philosophy and the way it’s applied on a superb modern list that is full of engaging small producers, with a fine selection of Burgundy and its heart, but with impressive selections of grower Champagne, an extensive range of Jura, and a sprinkling of naturally-minded producers from the Loire, Italy, and Spain.