There are few more distinctive culinary styles than the blend of Indonesian and modern American influences practiced by Yono Purnomo at his eponymous Albany restaurant.

Coming up to its 30th year of trading, the menu is as ambitious and creative as ever, with dishes such as coriander and cumin-rubbed Pennsylvania pork tenderloin, or 24-hour braised beef short ribs “Rendang”.

With its array of strong and exotic flavors, this is the kind of food that calls for an intelligent and sensitive approach to the wine list, and that is exactly what the judges at the World’s Best Wine Lists found. This is, they said, a “totally convincing” list, and one that has evidently been put together to match the menu.

Riesling—from Germany, Alsace, and New York—is particularly well represented, as are other aromatic white wines such as Malvazija from Croatia, Torrontés from Argentina, and Grüner Veltliner from Austria. And while there is plenty to occupy the classicist, the list is full of surprises: Austrian Zweigelt, Italian Dolcetto, Canadian Sauvignon Blanc … this fine list goes on.