A quick glance at the wine matches on Hans Haas’ eight-course “Gourmet Menu” at Munich’s Tantris goes some way to explaining why this innovative two Micheln-starred restaurant earned the title of the World’s Best Wine by the Glass list.

Duck liver with cock breast, artichokes, and peas is matched with Domaine Caupé La Canopée Jurançon; Lamb chops au gratin with broad beans and eggplant puree are paired with Domaine de Trevallon, Bouches du Rhône rouge 1992; and Comté and goat curd with glazed carrots is offered alongside Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Clos St-Urbain Pinot Gris Alsace 1997.

But these are just some of the examples of an approach that makes use of Coravin technology to, in the words of WBWL chairman of the judges Neil Beckett, “do something absolutely astonishing. Extraordinary. Nobody else is doing anything remotely as ambitious.”

But that, in a nutshell, is the hallmark of the entire Tantris list, which is unfailingly interesting and ambitious in whichever of the many regions you choose to look at, from a fine selection of German and Austrian wines, to the French and Italian classics, to Australia, California, Spain, and Portugal.