With its location in the heart of California wine country in St Helena, Press has an entirely logical and admirable goal: to celebrate “the heritage and history of the wines of the Napa Valley.” And there is a welcome inclusiveness to its approach, with the list featuring, as the restaurant’s website says, everyone from the “founding fathers to the rock stars of the new millennium to the farmer around the corner,” and with vintages dating back to the 1950s.

The winner of a special jury prize at the 2014 World’s Wine List Awards, the judges were once again impressed by the sheer depth and splendour of the Californian selection at Press. As they said, “There’s a no-frills presentation, and it’s very US-heavy. But wow! What a selection!”

With so many rare and old bottles from so many celebrated producers, it’s almost invidious to single out single bins. Suffice it to ask, as we did last year: where else can you find 1956 Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Private Reserve, 1974 Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard, and 1972 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars all under one roof?

Judges of the World’s Best Wine Lists 2017 commented that the wine list is “Such a lovely documentation of all that is Napa!”