Copenhagen restaurant Geranium has, in the words of the judges at the World’s Best Wine Lists 2015, a “very unique and self-confident (perhaps even self-conscious!)” approach to wine.

Eschewing the big established names of the wine world, the wine-buying team prefers to hunt out the world’s best small producers, many of them in the so-called “natural” camp, many more organic and biodynamic.

And leafing through the “cleanly arranged” pages, you find an “excitingly extensive and adventurous” selection that features a splendid array of grower Champagnes (arranged by village), an intelligently chosen group of wines from natural Loire and Rhône producers such as La Ferme de la Sansonnière and Dard et Ribo, and a long list of Jura and orange wines, both of which have their own, dedicated sections.

There are fine cherry-picks of small-scale Burgundy, Germany, Spain, and Italy, and wines in the same spirit from the New World, too, in a very modish, but beautifully constructed list.